jour no. 4 - Jim Haynes

Every Sunday, Jim Haynes -- an American expat in Montparnasse -- holds a party, open to anyone who RSVPs in time. You show up, contribute about 25 euros, have some wine and dinner, and talk to anyone you like. I went last night and met quite a few people -- Americans, Brits, and even Parisiens. I definitely need some pals for my stay here, and this was a great first step.

Jim figures that, over the years, he's had a total of 100,000 people at his parties. He lives in one of a row of artists' studios, with a great little courtyard.

jour no. 4 - Henri IV

I'm reading a great history of Paris called "The Seven Ages of Paris," and it's making my trip so much more enjoyable. I love coming across something like the Tour de Jean Sans Peur (the Tower of John the Fearless), and knowing who he was. The author clearly gets a kick out of Henri IV, so there's quite a bit about him, including his mania for fixing up Paris. Among his many projects, he managed to get the Pont Neuf finished, and there's a statue of him on the bridge (it's a newish version,

created during the Restoration; the original was destroyed in the Revolution). As he was known as the Vert Galant, he looks appropriately gallant on his horse.

According to my book, "It was said that each king had his statue among those he most loved; Henri IV in the midst of the people on the Pont Neuf; Louis XIII among the tumultuous favorites of the Place Royale; while Louis XIV resided with the tax collectors in the Place des Victoires."

jour no. 4 - jardins du luxembourg

Yesterday was grey and chilly, but still the city was packed. I wanted to go the Musee du Moyen Age to see the tapestries, but there was a long line, so I'll try again today. I spent an hour or so in the Luxembourg gardens, just watching. The flowers are in full bloom.

jour no. 3 - tempting

These were the tiniest shellfish I've ever seen for sale -- each just the size of a thumbnail. Maybe next time....

jour no. 3 - alimentation

Today was a big food day. I had lunch at Chez Omar, a North African restaurant with delicious couscous. The waiter was astonished that I drank an entire liter of San Pellegrino -- still dehydrated from traveling, I suppose.

I went to G. Detou, a food shop that reminded me a bit of Sahadi's in Brooklyn, and bought honey, vanilla beans, and tea. Somehow, it seemed a good idea to go into a fantastically chic chocolate shop and spend 20 EUROS on a tiny bag of orangettes (chocolate-covered candied orange peel). I'm rationing them.

Then, after walking around the 1st for a while, I went back to my neighborhood and went to "my" bakery, Eric Kayser, for a baguette, and "my" fromagerie, Aleosse, for butter.






A vendor was selling honey, so I bought more (oranger, with a thick, spreadable consistency) along with some pollen. (Also bought a hair dryer at Monoprix). Lugged it all home, and had a delicious snack of baguette, butter, and honey.

jour no. 3 - Eglise St-Eustache

A lovely, quiet, somber church by Les Halles.

jour no. 2

OK, so day 2 is a day late... Yesterday was very jet-laggy, and I haven't hit a comfort level yet with Paris, French, Parisiens, so the day was a bit exhausting. It was May Day, and so everything was closed, and it was hard to figure out what to do. I missed the parades or rallies or whatever it is that happens on May Day, but I did have a nice lunch (including my first escargots!), complete with a carafe of Lyonnais vin blanc.


I walked through Place Vendome, then went to the Opera to try to buy tickets, but the box office was closed. It's as beautiful as ever, of course.